Amman
Amman, Jordan's sprawling capital, is a captivating blend of ancient history and modern vibrancy. Perched on rolling hills, the city offers a rich tapestry of Roman ruins, bustling souks, contemporary art galleries, and rooftop cafes. Itβs a city that rewards the curious traveler, revealing its secrets through friendly encounters, aromatic spices, and the echoes of civilizations past. Beyond its historical landmarks, Amman pulsates with a dynamic culinary scene and a warm, welcoming spirit, making it the perfect gateway to exploring the wonders of Jordan.
Population: Approximately 4.6 million (consisting of the Greater Amman Municipality)
Timezone: UTC+3 (Arabia Standard Time)
Best time to visit: Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November). During these months, the weather is pleasantly mild, perfect for exploring outdoor historical sites and enjoying the city's vibrant street life. Summers can be very hot, and winters can be cool and rainy.
Local tips
- Embrace the Souks: Get lost in the labyrinthine alleys of Downtown Amman's souks. Don't be afraid to haggle politely for spices, handicrafts, and souvenirs. It's a sensory delight!
- Coffee Culture is King: Experience genuine Jordanian hospitality by stopping at a local 'gahwa' (coffee shop). Order a strong Arabic coffee (served with cardamom) or a refreshing mint tea and observe daily life.
- Street Food Adventures: Be adventurous and try local street food. Kunafa (a sweet cheese pastry) from Habibah Sweets in Downtown is legendary, and falafel sandwiches from street vendors are a delicious and affordable snack.
- Respectful Dress: While Amman is relatively liberal, it's respectful to dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites. Light, comfortable clothing that covers shoulders and knees is generally a good choice for both men and women.
- Explore Jabal Amman and Rainbow Street: Head to these vibrant neighborhoods for a taste of modern Amman. Discover independent boutiques, art galleries, charming cafes, and enjoy the lively atmosphere, especially in the evenings.
- Learn a Few Arabic Phrases: Even basic greetings like 'Salam Alaikum' (Peace be upon you) and 'Shukran' (Thank you) will be greatly appreciated by locals and unlock warmer interactions.
Rare and unlikely things to do
Off-the-beaten-path experiences you won't find in typical travel guides
Beyond the well-trodden tourist paths lies an opportunity to connect with the very soul of Jordan. Seek out a local Bedouin elder or a specialized cultural center in Amman that hosts intimate storytelling gatherings. These are not polished performances, but genuine recitations of tribal legends, epic poems, and historical accounts passed down through generations. Imagine sitting under a canopy of stars, perhaps with a warm cup of sweet tea, as a resonant voice weaves tales of ancient heroes, desert journeys, and the wisdom of the ancestors. Often, these sessions are held in specially prepared tents or outdoor spaces, creating an authentic and immersive atmosphere. You might learn about the origins of desert traditions, understand nomadic philosophies, or simply be captivated by the rhythm and beauty of the Arabic language spoken with generations of ingrained narrative skill. The experience is deeply personal, offering a rare glimpse into a living oral tradition that predates written records and continues to shape Jordanian identity.
The Art of the Stroke: A Private Arabic Calligraphy Masterclass in Amman
Amman is home to a vibrant community of artists, and for those with a keen interest in visual culture, a private calligraphy workshop offers an unparalleled opportunity. Instead of mass-produced souvenirs, seek out a highly respected contemporary Arabic calligrapher for a personalized, one-on-one session. These masters often work from their studios, which are repositories of centuries of artistic tradition. Under their patient guidance, you will learn the foundational strokes, the proper grip of the reed pen (qalam), and the graceful curves that define Arabic script. You might explore different styles like Thuluth, Naskh, or Diwani, each with its own character and historical significance. This experience is not merely about copying letters; it's about understanding the philosophy behind the art, the meticulous precision, and the meditative process. You will leave with not only a piece of your own handcrafted art but also a deep appreciation for this revered art form that has played a pivotal role in Islamic culture and visual expression.
Green Thumbs in the City: Contributing to Amman's Sustainable Agriculture Movement
Beyond the historical sites and modern cafes, a quiet but growing movement is transforming urban spaces in Amman. Discover and volunteer with a local urban farming initiative. These projects often operate in unexpected locations β repurposed rooftops, community gardens in overlooked neighborhoods, or even vertical farms utilizing innovative techniques. You'll work alongside passionate individuals dedicated to promoting sustainable agriculture, food security, and community engagement. Tasks can range from planting seedlings and watering crops to composting organic waste and assisting with harvesting. This hands-on experience offers a unique perspective on Amman, revealing its commitment to environmental stewardship and community resilience. You'll interact with locals on a different level, contributing directly to their efforts to create a more self-sufficient and environmentally conscious city, all while breathing fresh air and enjoying the satisfaction of nurturing life in an urban setting.
Ghosts of the Sands: A Photographic Quest for Abandoned Ottoman Railway Carriages in Amman's Outskirts
Venture beyond the city limits of Amman, and with careful research and perhaps the guidance of a local who knows the terrain, you can discover remnants of the historic Ottoman railway system. Specifically, seek out abandoned railway carriages that have been left to the elements, slowly succumbing to the desert landscape. These are not easily accessible tourist spots, but rather require a determined photographic expedition. Imagine the thrill of spotting these decaying metal giants, their paint faded, windows shattered, and interiors reclaimed by sand and time. Each carriage tells a silent story of a bygone era of travel and trade. The play of light and shadow on their rusted surfaces, the textures of decay, and the vast, silent expanse surrounding them create incredibly evocative and melancholic photographic opportunities. This pursuit is for the dedicated explorer and visual storyteller, offering a raw and authentic encounter with a forgotten chapter of Jordan's history, far from the usual crowds.